This originally ran in the Lititz Record-Express in 2005. It has been updated and where known, [the current, 2013 occupants of buildings or businesses are shown in brackets]
It’s
the summer of 1959. Take a walk with me from my home at 111 E. Lincoln Ave.,
west toward Broad Street and the Lincoln Avenue Garage [Lincoln Avenue Garage]. The International trucks parked on either
side of the ramp leading up into the garage are for sale and in a few years
they would be Scouts, the first vehicle to compete with the storied Jeep.
Further down the avenue at the corner with Broad Street we find Bart Sharp,
just returning from a birdwatching trip to White Oak, and his wife opening the
photo shop [For Lease] for the day.
Further
west on Lincoln Avenue would take us past one of the five shoe companies [Outback Toys] then
operating in town (I never could remember if it was Badorf, B-G, Lititz, Alsam or A. J. Beford Shoe Company), and
Travis Mills [Cargill (Wilbur)] before getting to the brand new Lambert-Hudnut [Johnson & Johnson] Pharmaceutical
plant. But we are not going that way today.
Turning
left we pass the American Legion [American Legion] and their brand new “air conditioned bar” and
at Front Street we encounter Zartman’s Dry Goods and Grocery Store [Shear Sensations]. They had a
novelty selection that rivaled
Gearhardt’s 5 cent to $1 store [Hess Clothing] further south on Broad at Juniper Alley,
or the Jos. Harris Variety store [Cherry Acres] on East Main Street. Behind Zartman’s, in the
alley, is Flory Distributing [Apartments] where you can pick up your “Beer, Ale, Porter,
Soft Drinks” by the case.
Directly
across Broad Street are the Lititz Lanes [GONE} and all eight lanes now, in 1959, have
new A.M.F. automatic pin spotters. The bowling alleys sit back off Broad Street
and just to the south of the Warwick House [Toy Soldier], which has been there as long as the
town of Warwick has been part of Lititz. South of the Lititz Lanes is another
one of the shoe factories [Subway].
The
pug-nosed delivery truck for Cream Top Dairy drives by just having finished
morning deliveries to its home clients in Lititz. Penn Dairies and Queen Dairy
were the other Lancaster dairies that delivered locally. Graybill’s Dairy in
Halfville and Spruce Villa Dairy on Brunnerville Road at Newport Road rounded
out the options for home delivery of milk and other dairy products. At the time
most homes also had bread delivered by Manbeck’s, Holsum, Wright’s or Harting’s
bakery.
Crossing
Front Street and continuing south we stop and peer into the window of Vernon
Ranck’s meat market [Savory Gourmet]. The meat was fresh since Vernon butchered in the building
behind the shop a couple of times a week. But then so did the other butchers in
the area: Lutz at the Farmer’s Market on
Main Street; Emerson Knight in Penryn; Markley’s in Lexington; and Greenawalt
& Keck at Stauffer’s on Kissel Hill.
Adjacent
to Ranck’s is Leaman’s Grocery Store [Uncle Funky's], one of perhaps a dozen neighborhood
groceries in town. Acme Market [Tiger's Eye], next to the LITITZ Theater [Teddy Bear Imporium] on Main Street is
now closed but Hiestand’s [ELA Group] has just opened a gigantic super market on the south
end of town at the foot of Kissel Hill (eventually selling out to Weis [Weis] who then
built an even bigger store across the street).
After
picking up a bologna sample from Vernon we continue south toward the creek
where we pause to take in the “air pollution” from the Wilbur Chocolate [Wilbur Division of Cargill International]
factory. They had just recently dropped the Suchard from their name.
Now we will cross the Reading Railroad [Norfolk Southern] tracks and
the creek and pause for a soft drink at Weaver’s Restaurant [GONE}.
Finding
a place to eat in Lititz is not a great challenge in 1959. Irvin’s Restaurant [Sturgis Haus]
is just next to the LITITZ Theater on Main Street in the Sturgis Hotel. The
Warwick House and the General Sutter [General Sutter] both offer lunch and dinner. Die
Brickerville Scheier is one of our favorite restaurants along US Route 322 in
Brickerville and there was the new Brickerville Snackette directly across the
road. For fast food there is Twin Kiss (better known as the TK) [GONE] on the north
edge of town and the Dairy Queen [Lititz Service Center] near the southern border of the borough. The
DQ didn’t last long and was soon replaced by a gas station.
You
can also get a meal at Al Weber’s White Swan Hotel [White Swan] in Rothsville as well as the
Brunnerville Hotel [Brunnerville Hotel]. Another favorite eatery is Gert’s Place [Private Residence] in Rothsville.
Weaver’s
will eventually become famous as Bingeman’s Restaurant, another favorite haunt
for the mysterious writer of “Mid the Turmoil” in the Lititz Record-Express. In 1959 Les and Mary Bingeman
are still honing their skills as restaurateurs at the Penn Dairies Restaurant
in Neffsville—known by most as “the purple wall.”
On
the wall inside Weaver’s is a clock advertising Rosey’s Ice Cream. The treats
were made in a garage behind the Front Street home (near Oak Street) of the
Rosenberg family. They had been selling ice cream treats street-by-street from
a big ice chest mounted on the back of a yellow Jeep. Earlier it had been a
full sized truck with the sides cut out to serve the neighborhood denizens.
This is the same Rosey who would get up early and park his truck near the
square on North Broad Street each Saturday and sell Roseyburgers—one of the
longest standing traditions in Lititz.
Next
to Weaver’s cum Bingeman’s was an empty storefront that had recently housed the
Western Auto Store and before that one of the two movie theaters in Lititz. The
restaurant and empty store will eventually be torn down leaving the side of the
Park View Hotel exposed.
Floyd
Hagy moved the Western Auto into a new brick building [Days Gone By] on Main Street between
Benner’s Pharmacy [Cafe' Chocolate] and Sturgis Alley, next to Doster’s Grocery Store [Matthew 25] which was
across the street from the LITITZ Theater. Doster’s is unique in that it has
doors that open automatically when you step on the rubber mat, freeing your
hands to carry the bags of groceries. Downtown Lititz was a flourishing center
of trade and innovation in 1959.
The
Park View Hotel wins the all time award for appropriately named buildings in
Lititz as sitting on the full front porch or balcony you had a perfect view of Lititz
Springs Park. The view wasn’t really all that great until 1957 as the park entry was pretty well grown over with aging trees and vines and the two large columns
that held the wrought-iron gates in place were cracked and crumbling. In 1956, the fellow who brought the Lambert-Hudnut pharmaceutical factory to
Lititz would give the park board the money to completely rebuild the entry,
adding the large pool, and spruce up most of the park, opening the Elmer Holmes
Brobst era of Lititz history. By 1959 the park is beautiful and inviting.
In 1959 we are looking into Lititz Springs
Park and down a narrow lane next to the park. On the left is the Lititz Springs
Pretzel Factory [GONE]. The smell of baking pretzels (the old-timers still call them
bretzels) competes with the odor of coca beans roasting at the Wilbur Chocolate
Company which is on the north side of the park.
Having
been baked commercially in Lititz before anywhere else, the pretzel had become
an established snack food by the end of the decade of the 1950s. Lititz was
still a major manufacturer of pretzels with the original Sturgis Pretzel Bakery [Sturgis Pretzel Bakery]
cranking out bags of pretzels on East Main Street across from Linden Hall. In
these days the girls attending Linden Hall all had their “pretzel boxes” which
they would take to the factory and get free or very inexpensive broken pretzels
to keep as snacks in their rooms.
P.
L. Kofroth, operating as “Old-Tyme, Hand-Made Lititz Pretzels” [GONE} had his bakery a
block east of Sturgis’ on Main Street.
Major
manufacturing and distribution of pretzels had shifted to Reading and in these
days before the mechanical twisters have taken over, most pretzels were still
twisted by hand. The story is told that it was one of the Sturgis brothers who
moved to Reading and founded the industry there. The unique part is that this
brother was left-handed and taught the people in Reading to twist pretzels left
handed. People in the pretzel business can actually tell a left-handed pretzel
from a right-handed pretzel. Machines would eventually make this little quirk
disappear.
Next
to the pretzel factory near the park is the warehouse building that the Spacht
family has given to the community to serve as a “community center.” It sits at
the end of North Spruce Street and directly up against the Lititz Springs Park.
Inside is a ballroom, a soda fountain (that was seldom used) and meeting rooms
for clubs and groups. “The Rec” is THE place to be on Saturday nights in the
summer time if you are a teenager. This is the place that I took my first date,
Yvonne Yeagley, for an evening of dancing and socializing.
The
Rec and the pretzel factory will soon be torn town and the Rev. I. Walton
Brobst Recreation Center will be built in their place. It would be the virtual
end to the pretzel industry in Lititz and would change the nature of the Rec
Center forever. The new building with it’s linoleum dance floor will never
replace the wooden plank floor of the old rec and it would never be as
inviting. Eventually, it too, will be replaced by a more modern facility and renamed Lititz Community Center. Many locals took the letters LCC and started calling it the Lititz Country Club. In 2013 it is the Lititz Rec and if affiliated with other similar operations in this part of the county.
Rock
and Roll is in the main stream by 1959, Elvis is still king but he is serving
in the Army leaving people like Bobby Darin and Paul Anka along with Bobby
Rydell and the media concoction called Fabian to fill the void. We spent our
allowances or earnings at Reedy’s Philco [Candy Ology or Glitz, I can't remember] across from the Post Office buying 45
rpm records and our week-ends going from community to community in search of
dances and midnight drags and submarine races.
So now, lets walk
south past Glassmyer's into the Lititz financial district.
Glassmyer's [Tomato Pie Cafe]
in 1959 is a drug store and soda fountain, one of three in town at the time. I
seldom went to Glassmyer’s, preferring instead McElroy’s [McElroy's], with it’s door
directly on the corner of Main and Cedar Streets. The high backed, dark wooden
booths and the long fountain with its round stools on pedestals is still my
prototype of a soda fountain all the way into the next century. Some of my
friends worked for Glenn McElroy as soda jerks dispensing, among other
concoctions, my favorite, the cherry phosphate.
But
it was the bank of green-headed Hamilton-Beach mixers that made the best
milkshake in the universe.
The
third soda fountain was at Benners Pharmacy [Cafe' Chocolat] in the first block of Main St. but
it catered to an older crowd and I don’t remember even entering the place until
much later to get a, then famous, nickel cup of coffee.
Going
south across North Alley (that was before Alleys were banned from Lititz and
they were all made into “Lanes.”) we come upon the imposing architecture of the
Lititz Springs National Bank.
Lititz
Springs Bank [Citizen's Bank] was celebrating 50 years of service to the community having
started in 1909 with $7,494 in deposits and total resources of $36,994. By May
of 1959 deposits had grown to $7,215,182 with total resources in excess of
eight million dollars. But none of it was mine.
My
little savings account and the Christmas Club accounts that my grandmother set
up for my sister and me were in the Farmers National Bank [Susquehanna Bank] next door on Broad Street.
They were boasting the newest banking craze—branch offices. You could then deal
with Farmers Bank in downtown Lititz or at their branch in the new Lancaster
Shopping Center, just south of US 30 between the Lititz and Oregon Pikes.
Across
Broad Street from the banks was a row of Victorian houses that may have made up
the most classically beautiful block of homes in Lititz. They would soon be
torn down in a melee that included a gas station, Lititz Springs Park and moving a street that I will get into at some other time.
And
that brings us to “the square” which is actually a triangle. In 1959 it is much
the same as it will be in 2005 [and 2013]. It was here in 1957 where the community
gathered spontaneously to celebrate the victorious Warwick Union High School basketball
squad—perhaps still the most successful in the history of the school. Coach
Dean Miller and his assistant Leroy Troupe dismounted from the yellow school
busses after winning the Lancaster County championship on March 1. They again
addressed the crowd after defeating Manchester High School, York County on
March 12 to advance to the District 3, Class “B” PIAA finals.
Having won the county championship the thinclads went on to defeat York
County’s Manchester High School by a heart stopping score of 56 to 54. They had
previously defeated the Biglerville and Camp Hill teams as county champs.
The
Warriors (who started the season unofficially as “the Pretzels”) had amassed
1,518 points in the season, besting their opponents by 380 points. They grabbed
448 more rebounds than those they faced. But in the District 3, Class “B” PIAA
finals they ran into the Palmyra Palms and were soundly trounced 61 to 37.
When the yellow school busses holding the dejected Warriors pulled up to the
square the crowd was, if anything, larger than the ones previous that were
celebrating victories.
Coaches
Miller and Troupe introduced team captain Ed Harnley and the coaches brought
every member of the team onto the trampled flower beds to raucous applause. One
by one: Ed Larkins, Dick Allebach, Glenn
“Shorty” Martin, Ken Keener, Johnny Gibbel, Ron Roth, Nev Weit, Sam Nuss and
Jere Long were treated to cheers. Even
managers Dan Sheffy and Gerry Kemper got their share.
The
other sports didn’t fare as well as the basketballers but the new Warwick Union
School District showed up in baseball, football, field hockey, boys (called
varsity) and girls tennis as well as a winning girls’ basketball team.
Coach
Joanne Smith and her managers Alice Gundrum and Theresa Cuccio supported a 7-3
winning season. The seniors were Captain Sue Myers, Mary Alice Diehm, Marilyn
Zartman, Susie Beck, Sally Sue Templeton, Pat Binkley and my grandparents’
neighbor on Cedar St., Lucy Hall.
But
now it is time to cross the other leg of Main Street, pass the General Sutter
Hotel [General Sutter Hotel] and pop in on the firemen, enjoying a chat and a cigar sitting next to
the fire trucks with tires, in 1959, nearly as tall as I.
Hess
Cleaners [Hess Clothing and Cleaners], “the only dry cleaner in Lititz,” was next to the fire house [Lititz Borough and Police Department] and
Gearhart’s Self-Service 5cent to $1 Store [Hess Clothing and Cleaners] was next to Juniper Alley (not then
“Lane”).
The
Gearhart family were great people but I never made friends with them because
their store was the scene of my own personal crime spree. Some years earlier I
was putting up my train set just before Christmas and the Plasticville log
cabin was situated behind a plastic log fence that was one section shy of being
complete. Soon thereafter I was in Gearhart’s, saw a section of fence in a 5 cent
bin. I put it in my pocket and walked out the door. It still bothers me, some
six decades later and I often wonder what would have happened to me had I been
found out.
Most
likely I would have been reported to my parents and punishment would have been
swift and sure. Today kids get locked up for offences that, in my day, were
parental problems. I wonder if we are better off?
Sitting
at the fire house on South Broad Street in 1959 on folding wooden slat chairs,
the cigar smoke is pretty thick.
The
fire house was still the social hub of the community with it’s Springtime
Strawberry Festival and the Chicken Corn Soup Festival in the Fall. Santa
handed each child in Lititz an orange from Stauffers ON Kissel Hill and a box
of Wilbur-Suchard chocolates from the decorated arch door to the fire house
kitchen.
Even
in those days the battle raged over the Chicken Corn Soup—to add the skin or
not add the skin to the recipe. Some years it even went so far that the
pro-skin crowd would grind up the skin and dump it into the mix when no one was
watching. My grandfather was proud to have been the official Lititz Fire
Company soup dipper for more than 50 years until they came to an end soon after
the new firehouse (which was dedicated to him and Paul Diehm) was constructed.
I
remember attending my first Lititz Sportsmen’s Club “Smoker” at the fire house.
It was one of the all male events of the day, was bawdy and raucous and,
indeed, culminated with everyone (except me and the few other teenagers in
attendance) lighting up and puffing on a Phillies Cheroot.
The
second floor of the fire house contained a social room for smoking, chewing,
playing cards and shooting pool. Behind it was the Borough Office—one room that
the Council used for their meetings. The
basement was the police department and the “lock up.” One of the town’s Boy
Scout troops met there (the other two, as I recall, met in the house next to
the Lutheran Church at Broad and Orange Streets, and in the Brothers House on
the Moravian Church campus).
Perhaps
the greatest mystery that Lititz ever held was viewable to me as I sat on that
folding chair in 1959 in the front of the fire house and looked across the
street. The great mystery was a house that was owned by a club. My grandfather
belonged to the club and he would go there regularly to play Hasenpfeffer or
Euchre. I never went inside it and no one ever talked about it. The Lititz
Record Express never wrote about it (that I could recall) and I don’t remember ever seeing a sign.
The
Lititz Young Men’s Business League (“The League”) is as much a mystery today as
it was then. But now, there is hope for
future disclosure—our esteemed editor, Steven Seeber, it is reported, has been
inducted into membership. I wonder, did he get a membership card? [At the age of 68 this year I, too, became a member of the League].